Olympic National Park

The past few days, various apps have been reminding me of our trip to Olympic National Park exactly 4 years ago. This 2-day whirlwind tour of the park was definitely full of highlights and in spite of the short time, may still be one of my favorite National Park visits. I will certainly want to return to this park sometime.

To start our tour, we took the ferry from Seattle and spent our first night in the delightful town of Sequim (pronounced “squim”) — in a B&B where all the rooms are refurbished train cabooses! After an excellent breakfast in the dining car, we checked out the lavender capital of the world before heading through Port Angeles and to our first stop in the park, Hurricane Ridge.

The winding road up to hurricane ridge brings you to one of the more dramatically placed visitor’s centers you will ever see. There are great views of the Olympic Mtn range and a number of hikes that start from the area. At the advice of a ranger, we took the Hurricane Hill trail to try to spot some Olympic marmots, which can only be found in this area. Even in late June, we had to crunch through some snow and experienced springlike weather on one side of the ridge, and foggy mist on the other. For a while, I was afraid we might just miss the marmots, but eventually, we found them! I admit, I was a little obsessed with the marmots.

After the hike we took a driving tour, stopping at Lake Crescent, the beach (because who doesn’t want to hike through snow and sand on the same day!), and ending up at the Lake Quinault Lodge. I think when we originally stayed there, I thought it fit my criteria for historic inns: “If it was good enough for Teddy, it’s good enough for us”, but I now find out it was President Franklin Roosevelt who had visited.

The next morning, we took a walk through the Quinault Rain Forest, which is partly in the National Park and partly National Forest. Whichever part we were in, we saw lots of banana slugs (though they are not as banana-y as the ones at home) and a pileated woodpecker along with plenty of other flora and fauna.

First Backpacking Experience: Desolation Wilderness

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Off I go!

I’ve always enjoyed hiking, and camping is something I’ve rediscovered over the past few years after a rather long hiatus since my girl scout days (but I still remember those camping trips to Sunset Beach!). However, never have I combined the two in the form of backpacking until earlier this month. We’d been talking about it for a while — after all, this is a skill that will let me see more of the national parks — and some good friends, much more experienced outdoorspeople, had offered to help us through our inaugural experience.

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Starting point at Wright’s Lake – beautiful day!

First stop was REI to use up our member coupons and dividends to procure new camping backpacks and a few other essentials. Good thing about going with experienced friends was that we didn’t need to buy all the gear, but we did get some good quality insulating layers since the forecast was calling for temperatures in the 20s and our own water filter (trust me – you don’t mess with giardia, giardia messes with you!). Next stop: the Desolation Wilderness in the El Dorado National Forest near South Lake Tahoe. Side note: I took my first non-scout camping trip in Death Valley and first backpacking in Desolation Wilderness – I’m sensing a theme here.

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Our doggie guide makes sure I’m still coming.

Our friends truly tried to take it easy on us on this single-night camping trip: We started from a parking lot near Wright’s lake, where the forest service has a seemingly nice summer campground facility, and hiked the ~5 miles or so into the Desolation Wilderness to Twin Lakes. Not a long hike, but the elevation went from 7000 ft at Wright’s Lake to ~8200 ft at Twin Lakes. I tend to need a day or so to adjust to higher elevations, so between that and some other extenuating circumstances, I was really struggling with the uphill. Add in the dropping temperatures and nerves about backpacking for the first time, and I was admittedly pretty miserable the first day (I was missing the Final Four for this?). In my defense, I still contend that the term “leisurely hike” is relative when you’re talking about trudging through snow and ice to get to a frozen lake… The scenery could not be beat, however!

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Pizza dinner!

We set up camp next to a large boulder near the outlet to the lake. Our trusty guides had brought along a few extras to help deal with the cold temps, including an extra sleeping bag, battery-powered heated gloves (amazing!), and the makings of warm backcountry pizzas cooked up on the little backpacking stove. I was quite impressed by the pizzas – campmade dough and everything! The nighttime brought cold winds, but I stayed fairly cozy in the the sleeping bag(s) and tent. When I had to get up in the middle of the night, there was definitely snow crunching underfoot, but it didn’t stick through to the morning.

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Let’s face it, a lot of that smile is because I’m back at the parking lot

In the morning, we said goodbye to the lake – it really was quite an amazing site all frozen and covered in ice! Fueled up with hot cocoa and oatmeal spiked with dried apples and trail mix, we headed back down to the car. I only fell on my butt once while trekking over the fresh ice, and in general I was able to appreciate the hike and the landscape a lot more on the way down. That being said, I was pretty excited to make it back to the car, even more excited to reach 4G range to find out Duke was going to the NCAA finals, and even more excited to reach a veggie burger in Placerville. So, perhaps my first backpacking experience was not completed with as much ease as I had hoped, but under some slightly different circumstances, I think I would have really enjoyed this hike. I’ll definitely have to give it another go and (very) slowly work my way up to being a backcountry camper!

Princess Campground, Sequoia National Forest

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Princess Meadow in Sequoia National Forest

As a final post about our recent trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon, I wanted to add to my “occasional series” on campgrounds and lodging. I had originally decided on Kings Canyon for our Labor Day weekend trip specifically because most of the campgrounds in the national park proper are first come-first serve, so I could be late to the planning party but at least in the same boat as everyone else! As the week went on, I got a little nervous we wouldn’t make it in time from the Bay Area to secure a campsite Friday afternoon, so I started checking for cancellations and snagged a reservation at Princess Campground in Sequoia National Forest. FYI, there was in fact still availability in the NP around 5 pm when we arrived, but it definitely filled up sometime that evening.

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Peeking back at our campsite from the Indian Basin trail

seki32Princess is in a great location just about a 10 min drive past Grant Grove on CA 180 and a half hour from Cedar Grove. It is technically in the National Forest, but you do have to pay the NP entrance fee to get to it by road. It was actually a great location for being able to explore both Sequoia and Kings Canyon parks (at least those areas accessible by road from the west). The campsites were generally more spread out that what I saw in Cedar and Grant Groves, and some had a decent amount of privacy among the trees. We were in the “Shining Cloud” loop at site #50, which was ideally situated between some trees and had a nice open area out the back leading toward Princess meadow. The sites on either side of us also seemed pretty nice, although they were nearer to the other loops on one side or the bathroom (pit toilets) on the other. At the campsite, we had company from chipmunks, Douglas’ squirrels, and a little bat in the evenings!

seki01seki02Behind the campground is the meadow, which was quite pretty with a little grove of birch trees. The “Indian Basin” trail is a short interpretive walk around the area (a shorter paved loop and a longer partly unpaved loop). When we took it Friday afternoon when we arrived, we saw some grazing cattle and one of the highlights of the trip – a bear! I haven’t seen a bear in CA in several years, and Jason never has, so this was quite exciting. We and the cows watched him meander by on the hillside to the far end of their grazing grounds. Good inspiration to be vigilant about using the bear box back at camp!

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Cattle grazing on the Indian Basin Loop
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Bear sighting! Didn’t manage to get my zoom on before he went behind the trees.

All in all, I’d definitely return to Princess on my next trip to the area, but they are only open in the summer and closed after Labor Day this year, so it’ll have to wait until next season!

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Beautiful morning out the tent door!