Western Region – Parks & Lex

Channel Islands National Park: Santa Cruz Island

January 5, 2018January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Finally made it to the 9th (in terms of my visits) National Park in California in November. Little guy was super excited to take a Boat to an Island (possibly because his hero is Moana…), and Santa Cruz seemed the most accessible for families and this time of year. We took the Island Packers excursion to Scorpion Ranch. Although the primary purpose of the trip is the crossing to the islands, they do stop if possible for wildlife, and we were rewarded for stopping a few minutes mid-trip to see two humpback whales surface near the boat. At Scorpion Ranch, we had a delicious picnic lunch I had ordered from Channel Island Provisioners (all packed up in re-useable/sustainable packaging and delivered to the dock in Ventura prior to our outing — a great option for traveling!). We immediately got to see the Channel Island Foxes, sadly because dumb people (like the kid old enough to know better at the table next to us) don’t heed the warnings about not feeding them, but they were still pretty cute if not totally wild. From Scorpion Ranch, we hiked the Cavern Point Loop up to the bluffs above the ranch, extending the hike a little by walking part of the way to Potato Harbor. The walk offered great views of the cliffs and caves down below as well as a few more whale sightings.

Crossing to/from Santa Cruz:

Channel Island Foxes:

Hiking Around Scorpion Ranch:

Passport Stamps:

Sun setting behind Santa Cruz Island from Santa Barbara:

Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area

January 4, 2018January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Catching up on 2017 trips, we took another Southern California trip to Ventura right after Thanksgiving (and before the terrible fires that swept through the region in Dec). The primary purpose of the trip was to visit the Channel Islands, my last full-fledged National Park in CA, but we also did some hiking in the Santa Monica Mountains on a very warm (90 degree) November Day. We stopped in the Visitor’s Center at King Gilette Ranch, then headed to Paramount Ranch to take a short hike starting from a fake Old West village (complete with mustachioed sheriff). It has been used as a set in several movies and TV shows, and did seem oddly familiar.

We also visited the Satwiwa Native American Cultural Center in the Rancho Sierra Vista area. The quarter mile from the parking lot to the center was all the hiking we did since little guy was on foot, but we observed the nice gardens and found a great view of the mountains from the replica of a Chumash home structure. Our toddler enjoyed exploring the kids exhibit inside the center (at his age, perhaps not so much for the historical/cultural significance as for being a table of things he’s allowed to touch…)

Cabrillo National Monument

January 3, 2018January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Just got back from a trip to San Diego and of course hit up Cabrillo National Monument while we were there. This site commemorates the first Spanish exploration of the Pacific Coast in 1542. There is a Visitor’s Center with a small interpretive exhibit, a statue of Juan Cabrillo, and an old lighthouse. We tried twice to hit up the tidepools (arriving just about low tide and an hour before the next day), but both times there were cars lined up the road waiting to park, so unfortunately missed it this time. Still was worth the stop to learn a bit of history and take in the views.

This is sometimes what traveling with a toddler is like

Death Valley National Park

June 28, 2017January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

As I’ve been working on planning little guy’s first camping trip, I’ve been remembering my adult self’s first camping trip in Dec 2012. I have fond memories of camping at Sunset Beach with my girl scout troop as a kid, but there was a pretty big gap thereafter in which the only time I spent in a tent ended in the receipt of Duke Basketball tickets. Of course, what better place to get your feet wet (figuratively) than Death Valley!? It takes about 8 hours to get to Death Valley from the Bay Area as you have to go down and around the Sierras, but the long drive even after leaving I-5 behind certainly makes you feel the remoteness. En route, we discovered the roadside town of Tehachapi, the “Land of Four Seasons” and your best (only?) bet to stop for food east of Bakersfield. The muted desert colors and expansive landscape were impressive from first approach into the valley.

We spent two nights camping at Furnace Creek Campground in the park. The campground was very nice, although since there are not really trees, there is not much privacy, which can be especially annoying when you’re surrounded by RVs in a little two-person tent (since then I always try to reserve tent-only or generator-free loops in campgrounds). Our first night went very well except that I had to pull a rogue camp chair out of the fire (and I was the one nervous about having a fire in the first place!). The second night the wind picked up even more, and I learned the lesson to always have a backup no-cook meal plan in case, for example, you can’t keep your camp stove lit long enough to boil water. We could hear the wind swirling around the valley all night long, and every so often, it would hit the tent and rattle it like it was a spaceship about to take off. Not the greatest night sleep, but kind of fun. For our third night, we stayed in the Panamint Springs Resort, a little off-the-grid motel with a decent beer selection near the edge of the park.

For hiking, we hit up a few trails, including hiking the Golden Canyon to Gower Gulch loop with the add on loop to visit Zabriskie Point. I didn’t actually realize you could drive all the way to the point by tour bus, but I like to think the view is nicer when you get there on your own two feet! This loop was a really great way to see some of the cool layered rock formations, and I learned what a gulch is! [a narrow V-shaped canyon containing a small stream or rock fall] For another hike, we explored Titus Canyon by hiking in from the valley side. It is popular to drive through the slot canyon from the Nevada side. Clearly not everyone headed the advice that a high clearance vehicle was recommended, but we didn’t want to risk it with my Ford Focus — plus it’s fun to hike!

Of course we visited some of Death Valley’s famous sights, including Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the United States at over 300 feet below sea level. The Badwater salt flats were a dramatic landscape, further highlighted by late-afternoon shadows. We also drove up to Scotty’s Castle, a fun piece of desert history and 20s architecture. If I recall, Death Valley Scotty conned rich New Yorkers, who basically went with it and established an elaborate desert retreat.

As usual, I’d love to spend more time in Death Valley National Park ~ maybe I’ll have to start planning for the next superbloom! I’m super curious to visit Racetrack Playa to see the “mysterious” moving rocks (yes, I know they confirmed the way the rocks move, but it doesn’t diminish the sense of intrigue regarding self-moving rocks).

In spite of a few slight mishaps, this was definitely a great re-introduction to camping for me. Here’s hoping for similar luck first time camping as a family with a toddler!

Haleakalā National Park (Summit Region)

April 29, 2017January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Okay, so kinda dropped off there for a while, but I’m trying to get back into writing about my visits to the National Parks. Especially since the National Parks are apparently part of the resistance these days…

My most recent visit was to Haleakalā NP in Maui, Hawaii. We selected Maui for a family trip since it’s a direct flight, contains a National Park, and is a good size for a short visit (plus, you know, Maui!). Next time, maybe we’ll hit up the Big Island and Hawaii Volcanoes NP. I’ll admit, we spent a good portion of time watching whales (!) and turtles (!!) out our condo window, but we did take a day trip to the Haleakalā summit.

It’s pretty crazy going from literal sea level (with the turtles to prove it) to over 10,000 ft in less than 2 hours on the road, but that’s what a volcano will get you. Following the recommendation of our neighbor on the plane, we stopped in Makawao on the way up the mountain for pastries at the 100-year old Komoda Bakery (their guava pastries were amazing and may have contributed to our rental car ant problem…) and a tasty cup of coffee at Sip Me. We also grabbed lunch supplies at the market as there are no concessions in the park.

You can stop in the small headquarters visitor’s center, where I got my Passport stamps, a few miles before the summit. At the summit itself, there is a small shelter with a panoramic walk around. We could see the snowy peaks of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island. I was a little disappointed the observatory complex is not open to the public, but since the terrain was similar to what I imagine Mars to be like, maybe we don’t need to look to the stars! It is supposed to be one of the best viewing areas in the world, however, if you do.

Now that we have a toddler on our hands, it’s fun to watch him explore the parks. Little guy walked the path from the parking to the summit himself so that we could tell him he summited a volcano (I think this was his third volcano, but first trip to the beach… priorities!). He also immediately took an interest in the red volcanic rocks on the ground. To cover a little more ground, we pulled out the hiking carrier and walked the first little bit of the Sliding Sands trail, which follows a long arc into Haleakalā crater. Interesting, the crater was carved out by water, not a volcanic blast as you might expect. It was a pretty cool site, with lots of colors contrasting with the stark landscape.

On our way back down the mountain, we stopped at Hosmer Grove, where there is a nice nature trail of the perfect length for toddlers to explore! The area was full of local birds ~ we saw at least ‘amakihi and ‘i’iwi, and I learned it is harder than usual to identify and take pictures of birds with toddlers in the mix. We also saw non-native chukar and pheasant in the park, but didn’t run across any nene.

Rosie the Riveter/WWII Home Front NHP

September 30, 2016January 5, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

In August, we utilized one of our local Bay Area parks to check off #5 for the year. The Rosie the Riveter/WWII Home Front National Historic Park in Richmond honors the work of the women who worked in the Kaiser Shipyards during WWII.

This was actually my second visit to the site, both times tacking the visit onto a trip to the Mountain Hardware Employee Store after scoring an entry pass to stock up on some good activewear. The Rosie the Riveter Visitor’s Center is located at the site of a 1930 Ford Assembly Plant, a great old building that now houses businesses such as Mountain Hardware and a restaurant.

In the Visitor’s Center, there are great interpretive exhibits about the shipyards, the role of women in the workforce, and the town of Richmond. It was interesting to learn about how the town of Richmond expanded almost overnight and became a booming, diverse community, although not without its issues of discrimination. In addition to the main Visitor Center, there are a few other historical sites scattered throughout Richmond, including an original ship, that are a part of the Park.

The Richmond shipyards, owned by Henry Kaiser whose previous projects included the Hoover Dam, produced more than 700 ships during WWII. For those of us who have had health insurance through Kaiser Permanente, an interesting fact is that it started as the employee health plan for those who worked in the Kaiser shipyards. In the Visitor Center, you can try out a (bolted down) rivet gun, although it was broken this past visit.

I also enjoyed looking at all of the copies of wartime propaganda, including an example by Walt Disney and another that will make you think twice about not carpooling!

Unfortunately, both times I have been to the Rosie the Riveter site, I have had to leave before the talk given by Ranger Betty Soskin, the oldest NPS park ranger who shares her experience in the local community during WWII. I have heard it is a great talk from an amazing woman and hope to make it one day! We also just missed this year’s Rosie Rally, a community gathering of >2000 individuals in their best Rosie gear in a friendly competition with a town in MI to secure the Guinness World Record. Too bad because I’m not opposed to dressing my baby in a Rosie outfit for the cause!

Baby’s First Yosemite Trip

September 18, 2016January 5, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Let’s catch up, shall we? I’m not quite as behind on my Centennial 12 Parks/12 Months Goal as it might appear. Back in May, a good friend was visiting from Norway, and I thought if anything could impress someone from the beautiful land of the fjords, with towering glacier-carved walls and waterfalls, it would be Yosemite! Since it was her first visit and we only had one full day, we opted to go into Yosemite Valley. Even though I know it will be crowded, I do still feel like people have to see Yosemite Valley. And it wasn’t just my friend’s first visit, but my baby’s first visit as well!

We headed out from theBay Area late Sunday morning, stopping at Altamont Brewing in Livermore to further impress my Norwegian friend with the concept of a growler of beer. Lodging can be expensive and somewhat sparse near the park, but we found a nice cabin to share at the Spinning Wheel Yosemite, down a dirt road off of 120 outside the Big Oak Flat entrance. They had a handful of cabins varying in size, including some new since the property was affected by the Rim Fire, and the owners were super nice. Good bird watching by the pool as well.

Monday we headed into the park, battled the crowds for parking (even on a Monday before school was out), and started out for the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. The plan was to hike the first mile or so of the trail to a nice lookout and call it a day. However, in my continuing theme of Lowered Expectations — with Baby!, we didn’t even make it to the trailhead when I decided to call it. We had gotten a later start than intended, and while we have a good soft carrier for the baby, I think we need a backpack-style carrier for more intensive hikes. So, we diverted ourselves to the accessible Lower Yosemite Falls Trail, a short walk up to the base of the tallest waterfall in North America! And there was actually water in it — on top of the drought the past few years, we tend to visit Yosemite in the late summer or fall when many of the falls have dried up. Little guy, of course, slept through the waterfall.

Valley Loop Trail – a pleasant hike not involving going up any cliffs

From Yosemite Falls, we weren’t quite ready to stop for lunch, so we walked back behind Yosemite Village tackling a little section of the Valley Loop Trail. It is actually pretty amazing how easily you can leave the crowds behind, even in Yosemite Valley. We weren’t the only people on the Valley Loop, but we definitely had some space to ourselves on the trail. It may not be climbing Half Dome, but the Valley Loop Trail is a pleasant wooded amble past some of the park’s most iconic sites – not bad!

After a picnic lunch, we had the dilemma whether to go deeper into the Valley to walk to the Vernal Falls footbridge (Mist Trail was definitely not in the cards!) or head to one of the groves of giant sequoias on the route out. We opted for the latter as the Sierras are the only place in the world one can see giant sequoias, and little guy seems to enjoy looking up at trees while we hike. I thought he might be impressed (and I could be projecting my own feelings, but I think he was!) We hiked down to the Tuolumne Grove, which has 2-3 dozen mature trees — not as many as the Mariposa Grove in the south part of the park, but not as many people either, and certainly enough to get a taste of these awesome trees. They are just so ridiculously massive compared to other trees around them! The hike itself was pretty easy on a wide trail, but you do have to do the uphill on the way back.

So, all in all, a successful first trip to Yosemite — my Norwegian friend is ready to return someday, and we got Little Guy out into the Park, where he saw some cool trees! I also got the NPS Centennial Stamp for Yosemite, and met a nice lady in Park HQ trying to get the 125th anniversary stamp I missed last year (but misremembered which one I needed and got a stamp of the 150th Anniversary of the Grant Act, which I already have – oops!)

John Muir National Historic Site

March 11, 2016January 5, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Well, I keep taking it down to the wire, but we did manage to get out to a National Park Service site the last weekend in February (even if I’m writing about it in March). Somewhat fitting for the NPS Centennial this year, we visited the home of one of the pivotal figures in the founding of the National Parks, John Muir. The site preserves the historic home of John Muir, Muir’s fruit orchards, and the Martinez adobe. Across the street, there are trails up “Mount Wanda”, named after one of Muir’s daughters, if you need to get your hiking fix.

The John Muir NHS is just off of Highway 4 in Martinez, CA. A bit ironic that this tribute to one of the great naturalists is right across from a gas station and adjacent to a highway, but on the bright side, great to have his legacy preserved in this little patch of land. You enter the estate through the visitor’s center, where the rangers were very friendly and will play a video upon request (as will likely be a theme this year, we skipped the video since the baby was strapped in the carrier). On the timeline display, you can see some of Muir’s achievements (and “could-have-beens” – cool to see a small photo of Hetch Hetchy Valley).

From there, it’s a short walk up the hill to Muir’s 3-story (+ bell tower!) home, which offers exhibits about Muir and the NPS on every floor. The rangers also lead a tour through the house (we were there on Sunday, and the talk was at 2). I learned that Muir was originally from Scotland and attended the University of Wisconsin before moving out West. He was relatively well-off and reportedly ran a good business off his orchards, which he inherited from his father-in-law. He spent several years in Martinez, later in life returning to spend more and more time in the Sierras with his conservation efforts. An older exhibit in the attic showcased his relationship with Teddy Roosevelt, cemented during one fateful camping trip together in Yosemite.

jomu02 The grounds are well-kept and include not only the fruit trees, but a little patch of redwoods and a giant sequoia planted by Muir himself. It is not quite as giant as the ones in their prime climate (or perhaps because it’s only ~100 years old?), but that didn’t stop one other visitor we saw hugging it 🙂 Many of the trees were blossoming on the day we visited, and according to the website, you’re free to pick a piece of fruit or two other times of the year. We packed a picnic and had a lovely lunch under the redwoods.

At the end of the estate, there is the Martinez adobe, built in 1849 and the oldest structure in Martinez. Inside, there is an exhibit about the Anza expedition (traced by the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail). Sometimes you don’t really appreciate how historical events like this line up chronologically – the expedition, which was an attempt by the Spanish to gain a foothold in Alta California, coincided with the American Revolution in the 1776! Juan Bautista de Anza started in Mexico, crossed the Sonoran Dessert, and made his way to San Francisco. I don’t believe he made it up to Martinez, but the adobe highlights the influence of the expedition on local building styles.
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Redwood National & State Parks

August 23, 2015January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

Haven’t done much camping this year, so even though I had my doubts at sleeping in a tent at seven months pregnant, decided to go for it and take a weekend in Redwood National and State Parks. This is a string of parks in far Northern California co-managed by the NPS and CA state parks. While we spent most of our time in the state park sections, I can now say I’ve been to all but one of the full-fledged National Parks in California (Channel Islands is a little tougher to do on an extended weekend from the Bay Area with the boat ride and all, but I’ll get there eventually).

Since it’s a long drive to the almost Oregon border, we took off Thursday night and drove half-way, stopping at a motel in Willits, CA, the “Gateway to the Redwoods” on highway 101. Willits has enough motels, restaurants, and shops to make it a good stop, and the best part is that it is a depot for the “Skunk Train”, a historic railway that follows the Noyo River through redwood forests from Willits to Ft. Bragg on the coast. We took the half-day roundtrip from Willits to the midpoint, Northspur, a small picnic area where you are encouraged to buy lunch (burgers & hot dogs, but there was at least a 3-bean salad, fries, and root beer floats to hold over this vegetarian until we got back to town). While we lunched at Northspur, the train went on to drop off campers at “Camp Noyo”, a private campground only accessible by the train. A little pricey for camping, but could definitely be a fun excursion to keep in mind for future family trips… camping AND trains!

From Willits, it was another 3-4 hours to Mill Creek campground in Del Norte Redwoods SP. This was definitely one of the nicest campsites we’ve had at such a large campground (with one unfortunate exception). We were at Site #93, and like most of the sites in that loop, the campsite was beautifully nestled amongst the redwoods. Although they we were close, we couldn’t see our camp neighbors — a group of college kids on one side and a religious family from Utah on the other — redw06

but guess which ones we could hear playing drinking games and being generally loud late into the night? It’s never a good sign when you pull into camp to hear your neighbors blasting Spice Girls and attempting to play the game Catchphrase but only “succeeding” by frantically spelling out the answers (i.e. cheating)… I guess avoiding this is why I need to give backpacking another try in the future. As far as I’m concerned, there’s only one type of campout at which flipcup is appropriate, and it’s one where you leave with Duke basketball tickets in hand!

The next day, we stopped at the Visitor’s Center in Crescent City, from which it was just a mile or so to get to the beginning of one of the scenic drives, Howland Hill Road, a dirt road that winds through Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP. It’s a great drive through the tall trees, and there are some trailheads off the road to get out and do more exploring. We opted for the Boy Scout Tree Trail, since it was supposed to be relatively easy in terms of elevation

redw1 — The trees aren’t the only thing that are extra-wide around here!

(because believe me, you feel every inch of gain when you’re lugging an extra 30 lbs under your already fatigued abs!). The full trail is ~6 miles, with an optional spur to see the Boy Scout Tree, but we decided to turn around after stopping for lunch at about 2.5 miles (right about where the spur to the tree should have been, but we didn’t see it). Still, we didn’t miss out on impressive trees. The coast redwood is the tallest tree on Earth, and even though I know the giant sequoias are wider and more massive, some of these trees were pretty ginormous at ground level! While I couldn’t cover as much ground as I would have liked, I was pretty proud of myself for getting a 5-mile hike in, and fellow hikers on the trail were very encouraging!

Howland Hill Road lets you out on the other side of Jedediah Smith park, near that park’s campground, the Smith river, and the Hiouchi visitor’s center. From there, you can loop back around (on a real road this time) to Crescent City, with some other options to stop and explore if you want. On our way back to camp, we also stopped at the Crescent Beach overlook, with access to Endert’s Beach, even spotting some Roosevelt Elk!

On our way out on Sunday, we took the Newton B. Drury scenic drive to get a last taste of the redwoods, stopping for a short walk at “Big Tree Wayside” and at the Prairie Creek SP Visitor’s Center. Supposedly this is a good area to see the Roosevelt Elk, but not so much in the late morning. We also stopped at the overlook of the mouth of the Klamath river, a good spot to see migrating whales from land, but again, not the best time of year. On our way home, we stopped at the Lost Coast Brewery & Cafe in Eureka for some lunch (and beer for Jason). All in all, a good visit to some beautiful scenery.

I got three of the standard passport stamps at the visitor’s centers in Crescent City, Orick, and Hiouchi, and Prairie Creek had their own take on stamps at their visitor’s center. Supposedly there may have been some at the Jedediah Smith campground as well, but we didn’t stop there.

Day Trip to Joshua Tree

March 29, 2015January 3, 2018parksandlex@gmail.com

jotr2_01 — Escaping the heat in Joshua Tree – hey is that snow??

Earlier this month, I made my second visit to Joshua Tree National Park during a weekend in Palm Springs. Despite being March, it was in the low 90s in Palm Springs, so we were more than happy to head to the higher elevation and different climate in Joshua Tree – a beautiful 75 degrees!

As we only had so many hours in the park, we stuck to a driving tour with brief stops for some short walks. As I observed on my last trip, Joshua Tree has an abundance of short nature walks, but with not a lot of shade and no water available in the park, very few longer hikes. I think Joshua Tree might be more of a climbing/bouldering paradise than hiking… but maybe I need a SoCal native to show me how it’s done.

On our loop, we hit up the jotr2_02 Hidden Valley Trail, the Cap Rock Nature Trail, and the Arch Rock Trail. The Hidden Valley Loop is a nice little introduction to the terrain of Joshua tree. The ~1 mile loop circles a valley previously used as a grazing area by cattle smugglers. We saw a couple signs of spring with blooming yucca and a single cactus. jotr2_04

The Cap Rock interpretive loop is very short, but there is a picnic area and an -um- interesting story our hotel manager told us to look up regarding the death of musician Gram Parsons.

Our favorite little walk of the day was the loop to Arch Rock, the trailhead for which is in the White Tank Campground. The trail takes you to some interesting natural rock formations, but my favorite part was that jotr2_09 we saw lots of lizards, including two chuckwallas. Chuckwallas can live up to 40 years and grow to something like 15 inches long. We saw an adult male, with the characteristic orange body and black head, and a female (or perhaps a juvenile?) with a greenish brown pattern and a striped tail.

On our way out of town, I did stop in at the Indian Cove ranger station to pick up one of the passport cancellations I didn’t yet have for the park. Is it cheating if I didn’t stay at the campground? Oh well.