Pearl Harbor Day: World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument

valr09valr10As today marks the 73rd anniversary of the bombings at Pearl Harbor that catalyzed U.S. entry into WWII, I thought it was a good time to go back into the passport archives for a post. Last year, I was lucky enough to attend a conference in Honolulu (thanks to 100 years of the American Association of Immunologists!), and I had a few hours the morning after the conference to make a trip out to the Pearl Harbor Visitor’s Center. Pearl Harbor, just outside Honolulu on the island of Oahu, is still an active U.S. Naval Station and is headquarters to the National Park Service’s WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument (other sites are located in AK and CA).

valr06The Visitor’s Center has a museum and is the base for the U.S.S. Arizona, Utah, and Oklahoma memorials, honoring those ships and the people who perished in the attacks. The museum gives the details of the events of Dec. 7, 1941, including the military details of the attack and the day as it played out for the people of Pearl Harbor. There are some interesting artifacts, including a marked up draft copy of FDR’s famous “a date that will live in infamy” speech. The exhibits definitely freshened my memory from that report I wrote in 3rd grade…

The U.S.S. Arizona memorial is thevalr07 “centerpiece” of the monument. The memorial is only accessible by boat with a ticket from the Visitor’s Center. The short boat ride across the harbor is preceded by a film, and then visitors are given time for observation at the memorial, which is built immediately over the ship. Almost 1800 men were lost when the ship sunk and are still entombed there. The names of all those lost in the Arizona are engraved onto a wall at the far end of the memorial. valr08Interestingly, a side panel also lists the names of U.S.S. Arizona survivors who later requested to be interred there. From the observation deck, you can see fish darting in and out of the corroded metal of the Arizona and oil slicks that to this day still rise to the surface.

valr05In addition to the U.S.S. Arizona memorial, there is a small, separately managed naval museum including a small sub available for tour at the site of the visitor’s center. I believe a shuttle will also take you over the U.S.S. Oklahoma Memorial, but the Utah is not open to the public as it is on the active military base.

Helpful hints for visiting Pearl Harbor: 1) You can make reservations in advance for the U.S.S. Arizona memorial on www.recreation.gov, but they also hold back a number of tickets for same-day onsite bookings. As I discovered, some tickets are also reserved in advance by tour companies, and you can request these through your Waikiki-area hotel. While not the cheapest option, this is a good way to go if you also need transportation to the site. 2) No bags of any kind are allowed past the front gate of the Visitor’s Center complex – while lockers/bag check are available nearby for a small fee, best to plan ahead and not bring more than you can stuff in your pockets (and care to take out to go through the security check).

 

State Park Bonus Feature: While most of the rest of my trip to Hawaii was taken up by the conference (the downside of visiting for work), I also got a little bit of hiking in by taking a quick outing to visit Diamond Head State Monument, easily accessible from Waikiki by public bus. The park offers a short (but steep!) hike to the rim starting from the inside of the crater, so you don’t have to climb the entire vertical distance you can see from the beach. There are interpretative signs telling the geological and military history of the crater, and the peak offers phenomenal views.

Fall Weekend in Yosemite Valley

I couldn’t risk letting 2014 go by without a trip to Yosemite, especially in their 150th anniversary year! I’ve concluded that the number of people in Yosemite Valley in July/August is just too much for me, but as expected, this random weekend in October, while still pretty popular, was manageable and gave us a taste of what Yosemite has to offer in the fall. A partial taste since the weather was a little more on par with August with 85°F temperatures! California isn’t particularly known for our fall color, but Yosemite gives it our best shot! And while we didn’t have crisp fall air, we still got to see leaves swirling in the breeze through the Valley.

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Take a deep breath and forget about the morning’s unpleasantness!

We tried to get an early start by driving up Friday night and staying at the Best Western in Oakhurst. Unfortunately, the breakfast waitstaff at the hotel restaurant had other ideas (we never were approached by a waitress – the hostess kept coming by and, noticing we hadn’t been helped, served us the whole meal. Two other parties were seated then simply left after being similarly ignored. Combine that with an offensive button worn by the lobby staff at checkout, and we’ll make this my first negative lodging review.) In spite of that, made it to the Valley Visitor’s Center by about 10:30-11.

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yose2_14Our late start pretty much determined which trail we were going to hit up. I had been considering the 4-mile trail up to Glacier Point, but since we were getting into the midday heat, wasn’t sure that would be a very pleasant hike. It’s supposed to have excellent views of Yosemite Falls, perhaps not quite as impressive when it’s dry, so I’ll pocket that one for the spring. Time to explore Yosemite Valley on the Valley Floor Loop.yose2_10

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Climbers on El Capitan

The Valley Floor Loop Trail is a pretty self-explanatory 13-mile loop that starts around the bottom of Yosemite Falls at Camp 4 and passes a lot of famous Valley landmarks, such as El Capitan and Bridal Veil Falls. There’s an option to do a 6.5-mile half loop by cutting across to the other side using a bridge near El Capitan. As promised by the descriptions I read, we were almost alone the whole day on the trail except for when it intersected the parking areas for the major landmarks.

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A mountain quail! I’ve seen plenty of California quail, but never one of these.

The only downside of the Valley Loop Trail is that it’s not that wide of a valley, so you’re never far from the park roads. On a Saturday, we could hear road noise pretty much the whole day. I will say, however, there is some satisfaction in exploring the Valley on your own two feet, even if you’re not exactly ditching civilization. Especially when you can enjoy the falling leaves and contrasting yellows and greens of the trees with the granite walls rising on either side of you!

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Had to sign disclaimers about Hanta virus to stay here… 5 weeks til we’re out of the incubation period!

yose2_18We spent the evening in Curry Village, staying in the classic tent cabins. It may be the most expensive canvas scaffold you’ve ever stayed in, but the tent cabins have a rustic, old-school charm and are a lot easier than having to set up camp for a night. Plus, when your Fitbit reads 35,000+ steps, fresh-baked pizza and a cold, local beer (albeit at ballpark-level prices) on an outdoor deck never tasted so good! And just in case that doesn’t make up any calorie deficit, they also have delicious, enormous cinnamon rolls at the coffee stand in the morning.

Sunday,yose2_21 we yose2_19headed back to the Bay Area, taking a detour to the Hetch Hetchy reservoir to visit our friendly local water supply. Driving out to Hetch Hetchy, we could see the evidence of last year’s Rim Fire, which started the week after our last Yosemite Trip (remind me to never again say “last chance to see the sequoia grove” while driving past!). O’ Shaughnessy Dam is a place where every good Bay Area citizen can come to feel conflicted about appreciating a stable, pristine water supply while wondering what was lost when Hetch Hetchy Valley was flooded to create the reservoir in spite of John Muir’s intense opposition. There are some trails around the reservoir, but with little tree cover and even higher temperatures than the day before, we decided to head into Groveland for some lunch at the Iron Door Saloon, the oldest continuously operating saloon in CA. Important note for stamp collectors – you have to ask for the Hetch Hetchy cancellation at the Entrance Station on your way in or out of the reservoir area as there is no official visitor’s center.

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Lassen Volcanic National Park (one year ago)

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lavo15lavo13Flipping back through my passport book, I was reminded that a year ago I took my introductory trip to Lassen Volcanic National Park in (more) Northern California. Lassen is almost like you took the highlights from Yosemite/King’s Canyon and the Sierras and mashed them up with the best geothermal features of Yellowstone. They’ve got it all! Mountains, volcanoes, forests, fumeroles…

We stayed at Drakesbad Guestlavo01Ranch, a rustic lodge & cabins in the Warner Valley area. It’s a wonderful place to get away from it all for both families and travelers without kids. The rate includes all three meals (all yummy), including a box lunch if you plan to be out and about, and they have a variety of activities, such as horseback riding, fishing, games, and a pool heated by the nearby hot springs. Another cool fact – Drakesbad is approximately half-way between Mexico and Canada on the Pacific Crest Trail, so keep that in mind if you’re ever lavo02inclined tolavo03 take that trip on!

One of the highlights in the Warner Valley area is the Devils Kitchen, and area filled with fumeroles and boiling mudpots. The trail leaves from a boardwalk across the meadow from Drakesbad and meanders through woods until you reach the unmistakable kitchen area, wherein the trail loops through several active areas. You can certainly smell it when you reach the kitchen as well!

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Bumpass’ Hell. These days there are boardwalks to keep us from suffering Bumpass’ fate, an early settler whose leg fell through the crust while leading a party through the area. Plans are in the works for new boardwalks to help protect park features and patrons.

It was a pretty good time of year to visit, right at the end of the season, although temperatures were definitely dropping. There may have been an afternoon we opted out of hiking in the freezing rain to play Scrabble by the fire in the Drakesbad common room.In fact, the road into the main part of the park was temporarily closed at that time due to snow at higher elevations. The next morning, however, proved a perfect time to swing through the main road and explore Bumpass Hell, view Lassen Peak (only accessible to visitors select weekends out of the year), and check out the visitors’ centers.

Now that I’m writing this, I’m realizing I need to plan another trip to Lassen – next summer perhaps?

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Lassen Peak

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Sequoia & Kings Canyon: Part 2 (Redwood Mountain Grove, General Grant, and Cedar Grove)

seki28In my last post, I featured spots in Sequoia National Park, but it turns out, Kings Canyon holds its own when it comes to giant sequoias in addition to having gorgeous valleys, granite canyons, and meadows.

Grant Grove

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A close up – that branch alone could be a huge tree!
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General Grant peeking through the trees

Grant Grove is just north of the Big Stump Entrance on CA 180 from Fresno. It is home to the famous “General Grant” tree, wider at its base than General Sherman and named after Ulysses S. Grant, who was of course still kicking when this giant tree was named. There is a short interpretive trail in the area around General Grant where you can walk through the Fallen Monarch that was used as a shelter and saloon in the 19th century, but of course this is one of the spots in the park where you get big crowds of people. The Grant Grove area contains a visitor’s center, market, lodging, and camping. I’ll admit, the restaurant makes good pizza if you happen to be out hiking longer than you expected and don’t feel like cooking at camp!

Redwood Mountain Grove
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Could this be what’s left of the Fallen Goliath?

 

 

Redwood Mountain is the largest sequoia grove in the world and (since the parking area is 2 miles down a windy dirt road) a great way to enjoy the sequoias in relative solitude on a day hike. We encountered just a handful of other hikers and a few families backpacking in the canyon, and there was evidence that horses also use the trail. There are two 6-7-mile loops that both cut back down the creek in the center, or you can combine the loops for a ~10-mile larger loop. There is a 1100-1400 gain over either route, but it was relatively gradual. We started along the central creek trail then turned left to take the Hart Tree and Fallen Goliath Loop — and almost managed to miss both landmarks! You can see the picture of what we thought the Fallen Goliath sign was pointing toward, but we were under the impression it should have been bigger. I did find a local news article from April of this year about a fire in the Fallen Goliath, but no other sources confirmed that a fire might have consumed a majority of the tree. It’s possible we just missed it. A mystery!

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Thanks to our fellow hikers for helping us find and take a photo with the Hart Tree!
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Nice view from a rocky area on the Fallen Goliath & Hart Tree loop

We were just thinking we may have also missed the Hart Tree, one of the 25 largest sequoias, when we encountered another hiker with his 5-year-old son on his first backpacking trip (kid has me beat!) also looking for the Hart Tree. After consulting his map, we turned around and found the tiny little sign pointing to the tree right behind us! It just goes to show how impressive all the sequoias are when you keep having “no, that one is the biggest tree I’ve ever seen!” moments around every corner…

Cedar Grove Area

If you seki23continue East on 180 instead of heading south on the Generals Hwy, you’ll drive down the canyon walls into Cedar Grove and the section of the park that follows the Kings River deeper into Kings Canyon. This area houses the other large campgrounds within Kings Canyon, a visitors center near the campground (where you can find the passport cancellation), and an additional information stand at the aptly named Road’s End. From Road’s End, you can continue on foot 2-3 miles down either side of the river to a bridge. From the bridge, you can return to Road’s End the way you came or down the other side, head up the hill for Mist Falls (apparently “still misting away” this time of year) or head up the Bubb’s Creek Trail to the left.

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seki24seki26We opted to go out and back just to the bridge along the trail on the south side of the river. According to the ranger we talked to, the north side trail is shorter, but a bit more rocky and exposed, while the south bank wound through trees and was much quieter. Remember the bug spray, though, unless you particularly like breathing in gnats! From where this trail cuts back to the Road’s End parking lot, you can also continue to Zumwalt Meadow (also directly accessible from the road), a beautiful breezy meadow fluttering with butterflies that has trails and boardwalks for all walkers/hikers.

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Zumwalt Meadow

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Sequoia & Kings Canyon: Part 1 (Giant Forest, Lodgepole, and the Generals’ Hwy)

Finally! It may have taken until Labor Day,seki34 but I finally got a to take a long weekend this summer to visit a new (to me) National Park. Parks actually, since Kings Canyon and Sequoia are two adjacent National Parks managed together. I love the Sierras, and these parks just may rival Yosemite as my favorite NP! There were so many highlights to this trip, that this will have to be a multi-part post.

Giant Forest

First, the “main attraction” of Sequoia National Park. Giant Sequoias are ridiculously huge, and the park has several prime examples of these trees, which are native only to limited areas of the Sierras and live for millennia. Leave it to a Giant Sequoia to make even the 200-ft sugar pine beside it look tiny. The Giant Forest is one of the most accessible groves in the park and home to the “General Sherman” tree, the most massive tree on Earth! There is parking at the Sherman Tree, and it’s also a stop on the park shuttle, which runs every 15 min in summer. From General Sherman, there are paved and unpaved trails that loop through nearby trees. The popular “Congress Trail” has several named trees and groves, including the President, the House, and the Senate, but in all honesty, it’s just as easy to be impressed by the unnamed bystanders. From points along the Congress Trail, there are also trails that lead further into the forest as well as a ~2 mile-trail back to the Giant Forest Museum (if we had planned better, i.e. carried snacks for me, we would have taken the shuttle one way and hiked back).

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General Sherman, the most massive tree on earth. He adds the equivalent of a 60-ft tree to his trunk per year.
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The Senate group on the Congress Trail (I think – I ended up with a lot of pictures of trees…)
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The President, looking quite stately. Chief Sequoyah, also impressive, was just behind him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sugar pine cone

Of course, the sequoia groves also provide ample opportunity to spot several little forest critters. We saw several chipmunks, squirrels, and birds, including the white-headed woodpecker below defacing the McKinley tree. While dwarfed by the giant sequoias, it’s also worth noting the other trees of the ecosystem such as the sugar pines, with their long pine cones hanging off the ends of tall branches.

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White-headed woodpecker

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lodgepole

seki08Further into Sequoia National Park is the Lodgepole area, which has a visitor’s center, campground, market, and other facilities. Lodgepole is one of two places where you can get tickets for the Crystal Cave tour (the other is the Foothills VC near the southern entrance), but we didn’t have time for that one this trip. If you do plan to go into the cave, read the current restrictions on clothing and equipment before you go as efforts are underway to prevent the spread of white-nose syndrome from bat colonies in the Eastern US.

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Black-tailed deer on the trail

From Lodgepole, we got our hiking legs warmed up on the trail to Tokopah Falls, a relatively easy 3.6-mile (round trip) trail that departs from the bridge at the end of the Lodgepole campground area roadway. While the waterfall was dry, the trail is a nice shaded path that follows the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River with a little bit of uphill, particularly as you approach the falls area. At the beginning of the trail, we could see where the campground continued up the other side of the river, and it looked like there were some pleasant campsites there. In the late morning, there didn’t seem to be too many insects, which was not the case everywhere in the park – definitely needed some bug spray on this trip!

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Tokopah Falls – not so falls-y in this drought
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Who needs waterfalls when this is the view in the opposite direction?

 

 

 

 

 

The Generals Highway
This scenic main drive winds its way through both parks and allows you to see most of the crowd favorites. Of course, the highway really only graces the Western side of the park, so there’s plenty more to explore on future visits (perhaps if my friends succeed in making a backpacker out of me…). Along the Generals Highway, you can whet your appetite for the backcountry by stopping at some pretty nice overlooks like these:

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Redwood Mountain Overlook
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Kings Canyon Overlook
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Sunset over Fresno from near Grant Grove

Sequoia Passport Cancellations

Passport stamps are available at Lodgepole & Foothills Visitors Centers (nice bonus stamp, too) and at the Giant Forest museum. There are also reportedly stamps at the Crystal Cave and Mineral King – guess I’ll just have to go back!

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Muir Woods National Monument

I’ve been utterly failing at getting out to any parks this summer, so two weekends ago I was determined to at least hit up one of the NPS sites in the greater Bay Area on a day of hiking. I opted to go get my Passport stamps for Muir Woods in Marin County, in spite of knowing that summer weekends would bring crowds. muwo05

muwo06Muir Woods is a beautiful example of a California redwood forest, with coast redwoods lining a shaded creek surrounded by ferns and a blanket of redwood sorrel. Unfortunately, it is also THE place for people touring CA to get a quick giant tree fix, so you get the trees without the tranquility. There are certainly better places to lose yourself in nature, including redwoods, but the scenery is still able to impress (and as you can see, I managed to get a few pictures without people in them!). Other highlights of the Monument (which likely also contribute to its popularity) are the educational programs and the boardwalked trails through the center of the park, which both protect the woods floor while also making the park more accessible to all visitors.

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muwo08If you must visit Muir Woods during summer weekends (as I apparently had to), it is highly recommended that you take the Muir Woods Shuttle (follow signs from the freeway). Another option if you are planning on doing more than just the boardwalk is to hike into the Woods from Mt. Tamalpais State Park. There are several options here: From the Mountain Home Inn, you can take the Panoramic and Ocean View trails into Muir Woods or follow Alice Eastman Road down to the Plevin Cut and Camp Eastwood trails.

We opted for a longer hike from the muwo01Pantoll Ranger Station, starting with the Stapelveldt and Ben Johnson trails and returning via Bootjack and Alpine. Up at the ranger station, it was all blustery fog and moss-covered trees, but we quickly lost the wind heading down the back side of the hill and had a pretty solitary hike until we got closer to Muir Woods. As you descend, you can see the redwood forest develop as you get further down into the watershed – it’s really quite a nice way to approach! All together, it ended up being about 8 miles and 4 hours, including some meandering about the visitor’s muwo02center and a stop on the trail for some lunch.

Of course the only muwo10problem with doing the hike this way is that the uphill is all on the way back! Using the TCC trail as a connector, you could do the loop we did from the end of the Muir Woods trail if you prefer to do the uphill first. My fitbit logged 147 flights of stairs – I was highly tempted to go up and down the stairs at my apartment 3 more times when I got home, but my knee was hurting from all the downhill hiking.

Back in Mill Valley, where Highway 1 turns up toward Mt. Tam, we stopped at the Dipsea Cafe for a late lunch and a much-deserved Mt. Tam Pale Ale from Marin Brewing!

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Joshua Tree National Park: Hiking

Cholla Cactus GardenPerhaps because of the sparse nature of the desert and potentially high temperatures,  Joshua Tree seemed to be heavy on the shorter interpretive nature trails, with fewer of the longer half-day and day hike options I usually prefer. At least in terms of established trails – you may want to explore backpacking and backcountry hiking options to get further off the main roads. That being said, it was definitely worth checking out some of these nature trails, particularly as first-time visitors. One of my favorites was the Cholla Cactus Garden on the road that heads toward the southern entrance. They really do look like fuzzy teddy bears, but that’s a mistake you don’t want to make. Barker Dam was basically a dirty puddle when we were there, but you can still walk the trail to spot lizards, learn about different desert plants, and, if interested, see the pictographs “enhanced” by old movie crews.

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There are some short walking trails near this popular photo spot

One fun hike was the 49 Palms Oasis trail. The entrance to this trail is actually outside of the main park off of Canyon Rd. leading in from the town of 29 Palms. The trail climbs in and out of the oasis for about a ~3 mile round trip (you get most of the 300-ft elevation in the first half-mile, and I imagine part of the moderately strenuous rating is that there is very little shade on the trail). While the trail is sparse, the oasis is full of ponds and palms (I tried counting, but lost track). Much of the oasis is off limits to protect the ecosystem, but it was fun to spot the palms tucked into the hills on the hike in then get to spend some time in its shade listening to the sounds of frogs (not a noise I associate with the desert).

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49 Palms Oasis tucked into the canyon

Another little hike we did was the Pine City Trail, which required driving a few miles down a dirt road to get to the trailhead (no high clearance needed, but it was only one lane with no directionality that we could tell…). The trail was a nice walk ending in a canyon and highlighting some of the other types of trees of the desert (or should I say actual trees since the Joshua technically is not). The trailhead is also the base for exploring one of the mines in the park.Mojave desert