Princess Campground, Sequoia National Forest

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Princess Meadow in Sequoia National Forest

As a final post about our recent trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon, I wanted to add to my “occasional series” on campgrounds and lodging. I had originally decided on Kings Canyon for our Labor Day weekend trip specifically because most of the campgrounds in the national park proper are first come-first serve, so I could be late to the planning party but at least in the same boat as everyone else! As the week went on, I got a little nervous we wouldn’t make it in time from the Bay Area to secure a campsite Friday afternoon, so I started checking for cancellations and snagged a reservation at Princess Campground in Sequoia National Forest. FYI, there was in fact still availability in the NP around 5 pm when we arrived, but it definitely filled up sometime that evening.

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Peeking back at our campsite from the Indian Basin trail

seki32Princess is in a great location just about a 10 min drive past Grant Grove on CA 180 and a half hour from Cedar Grove. It is technically in the National Forest, but you do have to pay the NP entrance fee to get to it by road. It was actually a great location for being able to explore both Sequoia and Kings Canyon parks (at least those areas accessible by road from the west). The campsites were generally more spread out that what I saw in Cedar and Grant Groves, and some had a decent amount of privacy among the trees. We were in the “Shining Cloud” loop at site #50, which was ideally situated between some trees and had a nice open area out the back leading toward Princess meadow. The sites on either side of us also seemed pretty nice, although they were nearer to the other loops on one side or the bathroom (pit toilets) on the other. At the campsite, we had company from chipmunks, Douglas’ squirrels, and a little bat in the evenings!

seki01seki02Behind the campground is the meadow, which was quite pretty with a little grove of birch trees. The “Indian Basin” trail is a short interpretive walk around the area (a shorter paved loop and a longer partly unpaved loop). When we took it Friday afternoon when we arrived, we saw some grazing cattle and one of the highlights of the trip – a bear! I haven’t seen a bear in CA in several years, and Jason never has, so this was quite exciting. We and the cows watched him meander by on the hillside to the far end of their grazing grounds. Good inspiration to be vigilant about using the bear box back at camp!

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Cattle grazing on the Indian Basin Loop
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Bear sighting! Didn’t manage to get my zoom on before he went behind the trees.

All in all, I’d definitely return to Princess on my next trip to the area, but they are only open in the summer and closed after Labor Day this year, so it’ll have to wait until next season!

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Beautiful morning out the tent door!

Sequoia & Kings Canyon: Part 2 (Redwood Mountain Grove, General Grant, and Cedar Grove)

seki28In my last post, I featured spots in Sequoia National Park, but it turns out, Kings Canyon holds its own when it comes to giant sequoias in addition to having gorgeous valleys, granite canyons, and meadows.

Grant Grove

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A close up – that branch alone could be a huge tree!
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General Grant peeking through the trees

Grant Grove is just north of the Big Stump Entrance on CA 180 from Fresno. It is home to the famous “General Grant” tree, wider at its base than General Sherman and named after Ulysses S. Grant, who was of course still kicking when this giant tree was named. There is a short interpretive trail in the area around General Grant where you can walk through the Fallen Monarch that was used as a shelter and saloon in the 19th century, but of course this is one of the spots in the park where you get big crowds of people. The Grant Grove area contains a visitor’s center, market, lodging, and camping. I’ll admit, the restaurant makes good pizza if you happen to be out hiking longer than you expected and don’t feel like cooking at camp!

Redwood Mountain Grove
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Could this be what’s left of the Fallen Goliath?

 

 

Redwood Mountain is the largest sequoia grove in the world and (since the parking area is 2 miles down a windy dirt road) a great way to enjoy the sequoias in relative solitude on a day hike. We encountered just a handful of other hikers and a few families backpacking in the canyon, and there was evidence that horses also use the trail. There are two 6-7-mile loops that both cut back down the creek in the center, or you can combine the loops for a ~10-mile larger loop. There is a 1100-1400 gain over either route, but it was relatively gradual. We started along the central creek trail then turned left to take the Hart Tree and Fallen Goliath Loop — and almost managed to miss both landmarks! You can see the picture of what we thought the Fallen Goliath sign was pointing toward, but we were under the impression it should have been bigger. I did find a local news article from April of this year about a fire in the Fallen Goliath, but no other sources confirmed that a fire might have consumed a majority of the tree. It’s possible we just missed it. A mystery!

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Thanks to our fellow hikers for helping us find and take a photo with the Hart Tree!
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Nice view from a rocky area on the Fallen Goliath & Hart Tree loop

We were just thinking we may have also missed the Hart Tree, one of the 25 largest sequoias, when we encountered another hiker with his 5-year-old son on his first backpacking trip (kid has me beat!) also looking for the Hart Tree. After consulting his map, we turned around and found the tiny little sign pointing to the tree right behind us! It just goes to show how impressive all the sequoias are when you keep having “no, that one is the biggest tree I’ve ever seen!” moments around every corner…

Cedar Grove Area

If you seki23continue East on 180 instead of heading south on the Generals Hwy, you’ll drive down the canyon walls into Cedar Grove and the section of the park that follows the Kings River deeper into Kings Canyon. This area houses the other large campgrounds within Kings Canyon, a visitors center near the campground (where you can find the passport cancellation), and an additional information stand at the aptly named Road’s End. From Road’s End, you can continue on foot 2-3 miles down either side of the river to a bridge. From the bridge, you can return to Road’s End the way you came or down the other side, head up the hill for Mist Falls (apparently “still misting away” this time of year) or head up the Bubb’s Creek Trail to the left.

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seki24seki26We opted to go out and back just to the bridge along the trail on the south side of the river. According to the ranger we talked to, the north side trail is shorter, but a bit more rocky and exposed, while the south bank wound through trees and was much quieter. Remember the bug spray, though, unless you particularly like breathing in gnats! From where this trail cuts back to the Road’s End parking lot, you can also continue to Zumwalt Meadow (also directly accessible from the road), a beautiful breezy meadow fluttering with butterflies that has trails and boardwalks for all walkers/hikers.

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Zumwalt Meadow

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Sequoia & Kings Canyon: Part 1 (Giant Forest, Lodgepole, and the Generals’ Hwy)

Finally! It may have taken until Labor Day,seki34 but I finally got a to take a long weekend this summer to visit a new (to me) National Park. Parks actually, since Kings Canyon and Sequoia are two adjacent National Parks managed together. I love the Sierras, and these parks just may rival Yosemite as my favorite NP! There were so many highlights to this trip, that this will have to be a multi-part post.

Giant Forest

First, the “main attraction” of Sequoia National Park. Giant Sequoias are ridiculously huge, and the park has several prime examples of these trees, which are native only to limited areas of the Sierras and live for millennia. Leave it to a Giant Sequoia to make even the 200-ft sugar pine beside it look tiny. The Giant Forest is one of the most accessible groves in the park and home to the “General Sherman” tree, the most massive tree on Earth! There is parking at the Sherman Tree, and it’s also a stop on the park shuttle, which runs every 15 min in summer. From General Sherman, there are paved and unpaved trails that loop through nearby trees. The popular “Congress Trail” has several named trees and groves, including the President, the House, and the Senate, but in all honesty, it’s just as easy to be impressed by the unnamed bystanders. From points along the Congress Trail, there are also trails that lead further into the forest as well as a ~2 mile-trail back to the Giant Forest Museum (if we had planned better, i.e. carried snacks for me, we would have taken the shuttle one way and hiked back).

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General Sherman, the most massive tree on earth. He adds the equivalent of a 60-ft tree to his trunk per year.
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The Senate group on the Congress Trail (I think – I ended up with a lot of pictures of trees…)
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The President, looking quite stately. Chief Sequoyah, also impressive, was just behind him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sugar pine cone

Of course, the sequoia groves also provide ample opportunity to spot several little forest critters. We saw several chipmunks, squirrels, and birds, including the white-headed woodpecker below defacing the McKinley tree. While dwarfed by the giant sequoias, it’s also worth noting the other trees of the ecosystem such as the sugar pines, with their long pine cones hanging off the ends of tall branches.

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White-headed woodpecker

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lodgepole

seki08Further into Sequoia National Park is the Lodgepole area, which has a visitor’s center, campground, market, and other facilities. Lodgepole is one of two places where you can get tickets for the Crystal Cave tour (the other is the Foothills VC near the southern entrance), but we didn’t have time for that one this trip. If you do plan to go into the cave, read the current restrictions on clothing and equipment before you go as efforts are underway to prevent the spread of white-nose syndrome from bat colonies in the Eastern US.

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Black-tailed deer on the trail

From Lodgepole, we got our hiking legs warmed up on the trail to Tokopah Falls, a relatively easy 3.6-mile (round trip) trail that departs from the bridge at the end of the Lodgepole campground area roadway. While the waterfall was dry, the trail is a nice shaded path that follows the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River with a little bit of uphill, particularly as you approach the falls area. At the beginning of the trail, we could see where the campground continued up the other side of the river, and it looked like there were some pleasant campsites there. In the late morning, there didn’t seem to be too many insects, which was not the case everywhere in the park – definitely needed some bug spray on this trip!

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Tokopah Falls – not so falls-y in this drought
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Who needs waterfalls when this is the view in the opposite direction?

 

 

 

 

 

The Generals Highway
This scenic main drive winds its way through both parks and allows you to see most of the crowd favorites. Of course, the highway really only graces the Western side of the park, so there’s plenty more to explore on future visits (perhaps if my friends succeed in making a backpacker out of me…). Along the Generals Highway, you can whet your appetite for the backcountry by stopping at some pretty nice overlooks like these:

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Redwood Mountain Overlook
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Kings Canyon Overlook
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Sunset over Fresno from near Grant Grove

Sequoia Passport Cancellations

Passport stamps are available at Lodgepole & Foothills Visitors Centers (nice bonus stamp, too) and at the Giant Forest museum. There are also reportedly stamps at the Crystal Cave and Mineral King – guess I’ll just have to go back!

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Muir Woods National Monument

I’ve been utterly failing at getting out to any parks this summer, so two weekends ago I was determined to at least hit up one of the NPS sites in the greater Bay Area on a day of hiking. I opted to go get my Passport stamps for Muir Woods in Marin County, in spite of knowing that summer weekends would bring crowds. muwo05

muwo06Muir Woods is a beautiful example of a California redwood forest, with coast redwoods lining a shaded creek surrounded by ferns and a blanket of redwood sorrel. Unfortunately, it is also THE place for people touring CA to get a quick giant tree fix, so you get the trees without the tranquility. There are certainly better places to lose yourself in nature, including redwoods, but the scenery is still able to impress (and as you can see, I managed to get a few pictures without people in them!). Other highlights of the Monument (which likely also contribute to its popularity) are the educational programs and the boardwalked trails through the center of the park, which both protect the woods floor while also making the park more accessible to all visitors.

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muwo08If you must visit Muir Woods during summer weekends (as I apparently had to), it is highly recommended that you take the Muir Woods Shuttle (follow signs from the freeway). Another option if you are planning on doing more than just the boardwalk is to hike into the Woods from Mt. Tamalpais State Park. There are several options here: From the Mountain Home Inn, you can take the Panoramic and Ocean View trails into Muir Woods or follow Alice Eastman Road down to the Plevin Cut and Camp Eastwood trails.

We opted for a longer hike from the muwo01Pantoll Ranger Station, starting with the Stapelveldt and Ben Johnson trails and returning via Bootjack and Alpine. Up at the ranger station, it was all blustery fog and moss-covered trees, but we quickly lost the wind heading down the back side of the hill and had a pretty solitary hike until we got closer to Muir Woods. As you descend, you can see the redwood forest develop as you get further down into the watershed – it’s really quite a nice way to approach! All together, it ended up being about 8 miles and 4 hours, including some meandering about the visitor’s muwo02center and a stop on the trail for some lunch.

Of course the only muwo10problem with doing the hike this way is that the uphill is all on the way back! Using the TCC trail as a connector, you could do the loop we did from the end of the Muir Woods trail if you prefer to do the uphill first. My fitbit logged 147 flights of stairs – I was highly tempted to go up and down the stairs at my apartment 3 more times when I got home, but my knee was hurting from all the downhill hiking.

Back in Mill Valley, where Highway 1 turns up toward Mt. Tam, we stopped at the Dipsea Cafe for a late lunch and a much-deserved Mt. Tam Pale Ale from Marin Brewing!

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Celebrating 150 Years of Yosemite!

yose01 I got back from a month of travel (national park-free, unfortunately) just in time: Today marks the 150th anniversary of the signing of the Yosemite Grant to preserve Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove by Abraham Lincoln! Certainly couldn’t let this occasion go by unnoticed.

Yosemiteyose09 is without a doubt one of my favorite places in this world. It’s definitely hard to keep up any pretense that I don’t have a favorite park, and I’ve spent my past couple yose03birthdays waking up and logging on to recreation.gov to make sure I get those coveted summer campyose10ing reservations.

Yosemite Valley deserves every superlative it gets for its grandeur and beauty, and other parts of the park show off even more wonders, like giant sequoias and the bright blue lakes of the High Sierras. Recently I’ve opted for Tuolumne Meadows in the summer because of the crowds in the valley, but I’m hoping to plan a winter or spring visit to Yosemite Valley next season.

 

So thanks, Abe, for helping to preserve this wonderful piece of California!yose14yose15

Memorial Day

Taking a moment today to remember those who were lost in our country’s conflicts and to honor everyone who has served (past and present). Helping us remember this legacy is also an important function of the National Park Service, from preserving battlefields to maintaining memorial sites. A list of NPS sites of remembrance can be found http://www.nps.gov/findapark/military-remember.htm

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From sea to shining sea: WWII Memorial in Washington, DC
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From sea to shining sea: USS Arizona Memorial in Honolulu

Joshua Tree National Park: Lodging & Camping

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An east-facing room gives you great views of a desert sunrise.

I always obsess over finding good places to stay when traveling. I don’t need luxury – what I really want is something that helps capture the character of the place I’m visiting. Tripadvisor has never let me down when it comes to hotels, even if you sometimes need to read between the lines, but it can be harder to sort through other people’s expectations and experiences with different campgrounds. I thought I’d include some periodic posts dedicated to lodging and camping, so here’s an installment on where we stayed on our Feb trip to Joshua Tree.

Because we’d be arriving on the later side after the long drive from the Bay Area, we opted to stay in a hotel in 29 Palms our first night. The 29 Palms Inn was great! We stayed in one of the adobe cottages, which consist of a cottage-style room with a private sun patio and a fireplace. They are situated right on the Oasis of Mara, the birthplace of 29 Palms, and are not more than a half-mile or so from the Park visitor’s center. The restaurant was tasty (light breakfast included) and uses vegetables from their garden. The inn’s grounds were great for watching birds at the oasis and sunrise over the desert.

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Finches at the Oasis of Mara
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Cactus garden at the 29 Palms Inn

 

Our next two nights we camped at one of thefull moon Park’s family campgrounds. I had wanted to book a site at Indian Cove to be a little more central, but when I made reservations in late December, Saturday was already booked. There are some first-come, first-serve campgrounds in the park, but with our long drive, I didn’t want to risk it. We ended up staying at the Black Rock Campground, which if a little further from the main park entrance, did have the advantage of being close to our route out of town the day we left, and they have the most Morning at the campgroundamenities of campgrounds in the park (I have to say, I am a fan of access to potable water). Some campsites were pretty large, but with nothing but a few Joshua trees for buffer, it did get a little noisy from some of the nearby campers. Not so noisy you couldn’t hear the coyotes crying in the early evening, though. There are some mid-range hiking trails in the area of the campground, but we didn’t check them out this trip. We did discover that Sam’s Market (and pizza and Indian food…) a few miles down the road in the town of Joshua Tree, had a good beer selection and other supplies, such as firewood.

 

Stamp Hunting in DC: The National Mall & Memorial Parks

White House
If you want to tour the White House, make a request through your local member of Congress at least 30 days in advance. There’s likely a link on your Congressperson’s official website

If you are looking to collect cancellations in your National Parks Passport book, there is truly no better location than Washington, D.C. in the National Mall area. While I didn’t have my Fitbit at the time, we certainly got some good walking in hopping from monument to memorial to museum. Here were some of the stops on our tour of the National Mall and surrounding area:

Signers of the Declaration of Independencenacc03 nacc09Constitution Gardens is the area just East of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial and North of the reflecting pool. There is a small lake to walk around, and in a plaza on the lake, you will find the memorial to the Signers of the Declaration of Independence, such as John Hancock, of course!

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View of the Capitol from the Old Post Office Tower, now closed for renovations until 2016

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Pennsylvania Avenue National Historic Site encompasses the stretch of Pennsylvania Ave. leading from the White House to the Capitol Building. There are a number of sites of interest along the way, including the National Archives, the National Gallery of Art, the FBI building, and the Old Post Office Tower. The Old Post Office Tower’s main attraction was the view from the top, but the tower closed for renovation a few weeks ago. I wonder if they will have updated exhibits when they reopen in 2016?

In a great example of why I like the Passport program, when I picked up the cancellation for West Potomac Park, I had to ask the person behind the kiosk what “West Potomac Park” actually is. In addition to getting my answer (basically, the entire western section of the larger National Mall & Memorial Parks, including the area around the Tidal Basin), I got a great history on the building of our nation’s capital and the National Mall from how it was first envisioned by Pierre Charles L’Enfant in 1791 through the addition of West Potomac Park and the Tidal Basin later. It’s amazing what you can learn from people when you have a simple conversation starter!

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Happy National Train Day!

National Train DayIf you are looking for train-themed accommodation near Olympic National Park in WA (because who isn’t?), I highly recommend the Red Caboose Getaway B&B in Sequim, WA. All of the “rooms” are converted cabooses, each with its own theme. We stayed in the Casey Jones caboose, dedicated to railroad memorabilia. The multi-course breakfast was delicious and served in the “Silver Eagle” dining car, where you can watch birds and ducks in the pond outside (and apparently the occasional bald eagle making off with one of the ducks).

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Sequim (pronounced “squim”) is a 20-30 min drive from the Olympic National Park visitor’s center in Port Angeles and can serve as a base for visiting the Hurricane Ridge area and northeastern part of the park. Sequim itself is a small town that is apparently the “Lavender Capital of America” (many lavender and other farms are open to visitors) and home to the train6train5olym1Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge.