Fall Weekend in Yosemite Valley

I couldn’t risk letting 2014 go by without a trip to Yosemite, especially in their 150th anniversary year! I’ve concluded that the number of people in Yosemite Valley in July/August is just too much for me, but as expected, this random weekend in October, while still pretty popular, was manageable and gave us a taste of what Yosemite has to offer in the fall. A partial taste since the weather was a little more on par with August with 85°F temperatures! California isn’t particularly known for our fall color, but Yosemite gives it our best shot! And while we didn’t have crisp fall air, we still got to see leaves swirling in the breeze through the Valley.

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Take a deep breath and forget about the morning’s unpleasantness!

We tried to get an early start by driving up Friday night and staying at the Best Western in Oakhurst. Unfortunately, the breakfast waitstaff at the hotel restaurant had other ideas (we never were approached by a waitress – the hostess kept coming by and, noticing we hadn’t been helped, served us the whole meal. Two other parties were seated then simply left after being similarly ignored. Combine that with an offensive button worn by the lobby staff at checkout, and we’ll make this my first negative lodging review.) In spite of that, made it to the Valley Visitor’s Center by about 10:30-11.

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yose2_14Our late start pretty much determined which trail we were going to hit up. I had been considering the 4-mile trail up to Glacier Point, but since we were getting into the midday heat, wasn’t sure that would be a very pleasant hike. It’s supposed to have excellent views of Yosemite Falls, perhaps not quite as impressive when it’s dry, so I’ll pocket that one for the spring. Time to explore Yosemite Valley on the Valley Floor Loop.yose2_10

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Climbers on El Capitan

The Valley Floor Loop Trail is a pretty self-explanatory 13-mile loop that starts around the bottom of Yosemite Falls at Camp 4 and passes a lot of famous Valley landmarks, such as El Capitan and Bridal Veil Falls. There’s an option to do a 6.5-mile half loop by cutting across to the other side using a bridge near El Capitan. As promised by the descriptions I read, we were almost alone the whole day on the trail except for when it intersected the parking areas for the major landmarks.

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A mountain quail! I’ve seen plenty of California quail, but never one of these.

The only downside of the Valley Loop Trail is that it’s not that wide of a valley, so you’re never far from the park roads. On a Saturday, we could hear road noise pretty much the whole day. I will say, however, there is some satisfaction in exploring the Valley on your own two feet, even if you’re not exactly ditching civilization. Especially when you can enjoy the falling leaves and contrasting yellows and greens of the trees with the granite walls rising on either side of you!

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Had to sign disclaimers about Hanta virus to stay here… 5 weeks til we’re out of the incubation period!

yose2_18We spent the evening in Curry Village, staying in the classic tent cabins. It may be the most expensive canvas scaffold you’ve ever stayed in, but the tent cabins have a rustic, old-school charm and are a lot easier than having to set up camp for a night. Plus, when your Fitbit reads 35,000+ steps, fresh-baked pizza and a cold, local beer (albeit at ballpark-level prices) on an outdoor deck never tasted so good! And just in case that doesn’t make up any calorie deficit, they also have delicious, enormous cinnamon rolls at the coffee stand in the morning.

Sunday,yose2_21 we yose2_19headed back to the Bay Area, taking a detour to the Hetch Hetchy reservoir to visit our friendly local water supply. Driving out to Hetch Hetchy, we could see the evidence of last year’s Rim Fire, which started the week after our last Yosemite Trip (remind me to never again say “last chance to see the sequoia grove” while driving past!). O’ Shaughnessy Dam is a place where every good Bay Area citizen can come to feel conflicted about appreciating a stable, pristine water supply while wondering what was lost when Hetch Hetchy Valley was flooded to create the reservoir in spite of John Muir’s intense opposition. There are some trails around the reservoir, but with little tree cover and even higher temperatures than the day before, we decided to head into Groveland for some lunch at the Iron Door Saloon, the oldest continuously operating saloon in CA. Important note for stamp collectors – you have to ask for the Hetch Hetchy cancellation at the Entrance Station on your way in or out of the reservoir area as there is no official visitor’s center.

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The Steel City and the New River Gorge

Pittsburgh and 1/3 riversParks & Lex is in the great city of Pittsburgh this weekend for a conference. This is my second time flying into my husband’s hometown, and I find it fitting that you are greeted at the airport baggage claim by statues of Franco Harris (Pittsburgh Steeler and recipient of the Immaculate Reception), George Washington (our nation’s first President), and T-Rex (our nation’s biggest, baddest ex-resident). This pretty much sums up this city to me – they are quite proud of their history, their sports teams, and their science & technology. While not in the national park system, I highly recommend checking out the Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History and the Phipps Conservatory in the Oakland area (NPS tie-in, many of the dino bones and reconstructions in the museum came from the sites now associated with Dinosaur National Monument in CO). The Warhol Museum is also worth a visit, even if you do end up enjoying the rotating guest exhibit more than the experimental 60s video art… (we saw a great exhibit on comic book artist Alex Ross).

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Butterfly at the Phipps Conservatory
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The Carnegie Museum of Natural History

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The reason I bring up the airport is that previous trips to Pittsburgh when we were living ineri7n North Carolina always meant long drives up Route 19 through West Virginia and always meant a stop at the New River Gorge. The New River Gorge National River spans 53 miles of the New River, and admittedly all I’ve seen of it is its iconic bridge along Rt. 19. The Canyon Rim Visitors’ Center, on the North side of the bridge, has information and exhibits on both the bridge and the river area. A boardwalk and stairs lead to views of the gorge and bridge and are a good way to stretch your legs.

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New River Gorge Bridge

Fayetteville, WV on the South side of the bridge, is purportedly the “Coolest Little Town”, and who am I to argue? The town services the recreation associated with the river, such as climbing and rafting, and has a lot of little restaurants that make good lunch spots. I was always a fan of the vegetarian soups (not to mention the coffee) at the Cathedral Cafe when we passed through during the winter holidays. Once a year, in the fall, the bridge closes down for a day of repelling, base-jumping, and other activities known as “Bridge Day”.

Back in Pittsburgh, I hope to someday check out some of the NPS sites in Western PA. Pittsburgh is on the Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail and part of the Rivers of Steel National Heritage Area. Further out are Fort Necessity National Battlefield, Friendship Hill and Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Sites, and the Flight 93 and Johnstown Flood National Memorials. For now, off to find me a Primanti Brothers sandwich!