GGNRA – Parks & Lex

We’re back! After a little hiatus to welcome in the next generation of Parks & Lex, I decided I needed to celebrate the National Park Service Centennial in 2016 by visiting at least one NPS site each month this year. Of course, making this resolution the last week in January with a three-month-old at home (and with “Super Bowl City” potentially disrupting traffic in/through San Francisco) didn’t leave me too many options. But, it turns out that the southernmost portion of Golden Gate National Recreation Area is practically in my backyard in San Mateo County at Phleger Estate.

The estate, which was turned into a park in 1995, is a second-growth redwood forest with creeks running through it. There are a limited number of trails: two leading in from either edge connecting to a loop in the far corner. The directions to access the park suggest entering via Huddart Park, which connects to the Miramontes Trail. We opted to enter from Skyline Blvd., parking at the Purisima Creek parking area and walking to the Estate via the Skyline trail, which parallels the road. It’s about a half mile to Phleger Estate and another half mile to Kings Mountain. From there, we turned down the Lonely Trail. Once we turned away from the road, the trail was quite quiet –lonely, if you will — other than the occasional airplane overhead. The Lonely Trail then heads down the hillside, eventually meeting up with the other trails.

Since this was my first time hiking with the baby (on the outside), we went another half mile to the creek and turned around, trying to pace ourselves for the walk back up the hill. I think it was about a 500-ft elevation change, but it felt like more to me! We also learned a lesson in dressing a baby for a fairly cold day in the redwood forest: While he was generally warm snuggled up against me, his legs and feet got pretty cold hanging out of the carrier. We went home and promptly ordered him some merino wool baby tights for the future, so we’ll see how those perform.

pfleger5 — Banana slug for scale. I thought it would be too cold for them, but spotted this guy on the side of the path.

pfleger9 — In the time it took us to walk the 0.5 miles down to the creek then back up, the banana slug (by the log) crossed the trail.

While we just barely qualified for my goal of 12 parks in 12 months, my favorite part of the hike was introducing the park to the little one. When I’ve taken him on walks around the neighborhood in the stroller, I’ve noticed him eying the trees as we passed by, so I couldn’t wait to show him the big (even the “young” ones) redwoods. I might be projecting my own enthusiasm, but I’d say he was impressed – and even spent some time cooing at the trees. Here’s hoping it’s the start of many future adventures!

While I’m always scheming my next national park getaway, the truth is I still have NPS sites to visit here in my own backyard in the Bay Area. Earlier this spring, I took advantage of a nice sunny day to check out the San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park in the Fisherman’s Wharf area. This part of town caters to the tourist crowd, but crowds and T-shirt shops aside, I do enjoy the occasional cable car ride or visit to Ghirardelli Square for an over-the-top ice cream sundae 🙂

The main visitor center for the historic park is in a brick cannery building on the corner of Hyde and Jefferson. Inside, they have multimedia exhibits highlighting the importance of maritime trade and travel in the city’s history and some fun facts about the city. For example, I learned that the MUNI tunnel under Market St. actually goes right through the middle of a Gold Rush-era ship, one of many buried under the financial district. The visitor’s center also has information on other Bay Area and CA national park sites if San Francisco is just your first stop. Across the street from the visitor’s center is the historic Hyde Street Pier, where you can tour historic ships and other exhibits.

1907 steam tug Hercules with Alcatraz in the background

Before hopping on that cable car, it’s nice to walk along the beachfront around to the municipal pier side of the park. Across from Ghirardelli Square is the Aquatic Park Boathouse and Maritime Museum. This Depression-era building is used for events and as a senior center in addition to being a small museum associated with the park. It’s worth poking your head in to check out the art deco design, the WPA murals, and the model ships (and there is a bonus stamp of a ship for your Passport book in addition to the park stamp).

If you continue past the municipal pier, you can take the Bay Trail around (or go up and over the hill) to Fort Mason. Fort Mason is technically part of Golden Gate National Recreation Area, but it also houses the Maritime Park Library (open weekdays). It seems like there’s almost always something going on whenever I’m there, whether it is a farmers market, a food truck meet-up, or a craft [beer/chocolate/distilling] expo, and the buildings also house shops & restaurants (including the famous vegetarian restaurant Greens).